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Two Months in Italy - Venice

Author: Host Ciao (More Trip Reviews by Host Ciao)
Date of Trip: November 2012

I have more to write about Venice sights, food, etc. But I have to stop typing. I'm off to have my sublime to ridiculous supper--a glass of Prosecco and then upstairs to eat my tonno e cippoline tremezzini. That’s two half sandwiches of tuna salad with small cocktail onions. My cheapest dinner too. 3.50E for Prosecco and 3 for sandwiches.

I promised to add some more about Venice. First a confession--I gave up on Padua and went straight to Venice. I wanted to see Padua again, but the thought of taking even my two small suitcases on and off the train an extra day was not a happy thought. In fact I fear I have to admit I get tired more easily. Ah well!

In Venice among the Chorus churches the Frari is a must. It is a huge church with a magnificent huge Titian Assumption as the main window, unfortunately being restored this year so I could only see parts of it. However, there is much more--one of Donatello's first wood sculptures, one of St. John the Baptist; there is also a Bellini Madonna and Child with Saints that is considered one of his finest, a huge tomb for Titian, another huge monument for Canova, beautiful carved choir seats and more.

And when you are done their right around the side of the church is the Scuola di San Rocco, a building belonging to a Society of that sait. It is full of Tintoretto paintings and I am not exaggerating. The ground floor tells the story of Mary. The huge room on the first floor (our second) is also full. The ceiling tells Old Testament stories, and the walls stories of Jesus' life. A side room has a huge Crucifixion. I can't recommend this highly enough. They have mirrors to help you view the ceiling if you don’t want to bend your neck. There are several other scuola in Venice but my time ran out.

I stayed again at the Hotel Ala, a Best Western, and just a short narrow alley off the Vaporetto stop--no humpy bridges. Unfortunately my favorite restaurant and the one that staying in the Ala gives me a 10% discount was only open the first night I was there, then it closed for vacation. Anyway that first night since I didn’t realize it was going to close I ordered mixed fried fish figuring I could come back for fegato ala Veneziana, veal liver and onions to those of you who cringe at the word. The mixed fried fish was very good, but I have to tell you the truth, I only recognized two of about 15--shrimp and calamari. There was one that had the heads gone, but still had a back bone that I think was anchovy--nothing like the canned ones. Only one tiny, tiny creature still had a head. As I said, who knows. I am sure I saw most of them at the market when I walked there.

I only would have eaten at Da Rafaelle once more because it is sort of expensive even with the discount and the fact that I only had fish and wine--no sides. So another night I ventured to Tavernetta di San Maurizio, where I had eaten before and which is about 5 minutes from hotel. I had very excellent fried calamari (squid), one of my favorites. They had a special three course dinner, but I can't eat that much anymore--at least I am getting that smart. So I decided to try them for fegato ala Veneziana, which I am quite fond of. Unfortunately it did not live up to the fried calamari. It was a tad too greasy. Maybe next time Da Rafaelle will be open.

Read More about my 2 months in Italy:

The start: Two Months in Italy - Venice
Christmas in Italy
Some Notes: Outdoor eating and Italians LOVE dogs

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