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5 Days, 5 Nights: Warsaw, Torun, Bydgoszcz, POLAND

Author: PenelopeCorelli (More Trip Reviews by PenelopeCorelli)
Date of Trip: July 2009

Wednesday, July 1: Barcelona to Warsaw
Got on the plane to Warsaw. LOT had comfortable seats, a nice deli lunch, lots of bread and rolls. Buses wait at the airport to take passengers to the terminal. Several baggage claim areas.

old town warsaw polandMy cousin Maria & her daughter Weronika met us and graciously showed us around. We rented a car for the time we were here- although Poland has good transportation- because I wanted to check out a couple of places my grandparents had lived. We went to Warsaw's Old Town for dinner at POLKA Restaurant of Magda Gessler. Their website shows their menu. A very classy place with prices that are not astronomical. I had duck with red cabbage & mizeria (cucumber salad) for 39zl ($13). Old Town is a very beautiful area with statues & lovely buildings -- all of it rebuilt to look exactly as it was before the Nazis systematically destroyed the area in WWII, razing it to the ground with not a stone left standing.

We stayed at Hotel Novotel in the center of Warsaw. A business type of hotel in the American style with few amenities. A queen bed & a queen futon. We got a good deal (comparatively) for the room. The parking, however, was outrageous, even with the special rate! Normally 120zl for 24 hours, hotel guests pay 85zl per day - over $28 -- to park a car at a hotel! So we found, with some difficulty, street parking, although there is a daytime fee. We just parked at night & got up early to pay the meter by 8am (13zl). In Poland, cars park on the sidewalks, usually with 2 wheels on the walkway & 2 on the road. Traffic lights turn yellow before both red and green.

Thursday, July 2: Warsaw

Had breakfast next to the hotel at a bakery/sandwich shop. Got 3 eclairs, 2 coffees & a tea for 32zl + 5.80zl for 2 OJ. The water at the bakery was horrible (tap water? was served) so we bought 3 bottles of water (6zl) at the nearby sidewalk kiosk with 2 cold drink machines. When the purchase was made at the kiosk, the salesperson inside pushed a button and the drink machines outside dispensed the purchased items!

lazienski royal park warsaw amphitheaterBought a bag of cherries at a fruit stand for 5.20zl. Met our relatives/hosts and walked to Lazienki Royal Park, a beautiful area with a regal feel to it. Lots of trees & paths with spotless, manicured gardens, a lake, statues, peacocks and a palace -- the summer palace of King Stanislaw August Poniatowski, 18th century. The park suffered damage during the war & was rebuilt soon after. The palace remained intact because the Nazis occupied it during the war, and although there were plans to destroy it and holes were drilled to place explosives, they never got around to detonating them. Our hosts treated us to coffees & milkshakes at Trou Madame Cafe in the park.

Went to a great Boleslawiec Polish pottery store not very far away where I purchased a few items, and a couple of small pieces of hand-cut crystal. Just to give you an idea: I bought 2 cup/saucer sets, a teapot, 2 eggcups, 2 tiny dishes -- for teabag or salt - all for 105.80zl ($32.65), and a crystal shot glass & a crystal aperitif/communion glass for 24.85zl ($7.67). A lot cheaper than anywhere else I've seen, and very beautiful! I would have liked to buy more, except that I had a cruise to go on & everything had to travel with me. (Next time I go there, I'm bringing an empty suitcase!)

We returned to Old Town & visited the Gothic St. John's Cathedral. I remember that there were no prayer candles as in other Catholic churches, but furniture that looks like desks where the people can pray. Stopped next door at the church store to purchase a few items. The WC nearby cost 2zl and had clean toilets with paper! Also soap & water, but no towels. We asked & got them from the attendant upon leaving.

We went to our relatives' home, where we ate a delicious Polish dinner cooked perfectly by my young cousin, a theatre graduate & now working actress. They have no microwave, considered unhealthy by many Poles. Drank bottled water, as the people don't usually drink the tap water here.

Friday, July 3: Warsaw to Torun

copernicus house torunWe left for the medieval town of Torun, where my oldest cousin Hanna lived, a popular tourist area and home to the astronomer Nicholas Copernicus & renowned chocolate-covered gingerbread. It took about 3 hours to get from Warsaw to Torun, and there was a lot of road construction. On the way to Torun we passed a wooded stretch of road where people were selling forest mushrooms and baskets of berries & cherries on the hoods of their parked cars or on a blanket next to their bicycles. They had large umbrellas attached to the cars to shelter them from sun or rain. My host said that some of them pick them in the forest to sell by the side of the road.

My elderly cousin had a lovely lunch prepared. The Poles are known as some of the most hospitable people in the world, and have a saying that "A guest in the house is God in the house."

torun polandWe then toured the old town area of Torun, very lovely and truly old, with some places dating from the 14th century. The castle was closed, unfortunately, but we took photos of the outside and through the slats on the gates.

We stopped for drinks at a nice outdoor cafe in the middle of Old Town Torun, and got 3 beers, 1 Coke & a tea for the amazing price of 20zl -- under $7! Visited the Church of the Blessed Assumption, where a mass was going on.

Had dinner at Vinci Restaurant -- and this was the only disaster of the trip to Poland. The restaurant seemed pleasant, with outdoor tables & nice place settings. We sat outside & asked for house wine, which they said they didn't have, but brought us 3 glasses of a red wine. Smelled odd. Husband Jim had a swig & I took a sip, and it was awful! Daughter Cate said it smelled like nail polish remover, which was a surprisingly accurate analysis. We told the waitress about it and when she returned from inside, she said the chef said it was supposed to smell like that! Seriously! A nice-looking restaurant serving horribly rotten wine -- and making excuses for it instead of quickly apologizing! We complained and got another glass of a real wine. When our meals arrived, 2 of us were served first, then 2 others, and the fifth, my youngest cousin, wasn't served until much later. When the dish finally arrived, she started eating and was searching for the mussels (she had ordered seafood pasta.) We asked our waitress, who replied -- matter-of-factly -- that it was because someone else got the seafood pasta, so my cousin was served the other dish! (This was a cheaper pasta dish, & the person who ordered it got the better one, so didn't say anything!) The seafood pasta had by this time been served and eaten. No effort was made to make amends. We demanded that we not be charged for this dish, so the restaurant complied and also gave us dessert free-of-charge. -- BTW, Cate's dessert plate was severely chipped and she cut her finger on it. What an experience! Avoid this place at all costs - unless it changes ownership and staff!

kuznia hotel bydgoszcz poland signWe headed off to our hotel in Bydgoszcz after dropping the ladies off at my eldest cousin's place -- she doesn't get around much, and so skipped the touring. We had reservations at Kuznia Hotel, which Jim found on the Internet -- reasonably priced and including breakfast. Finding it in the dark was another thing. After asking for directions at a convenience store & buying a map, we located it -- and weren't sure if we made a good choice. There was a sign at the street, but there was an old and narrow driveway leading through the buildings. As we approached it, the area opened up and we found it to be very nice, modern, with a restaurant area & nightclub. Jim asked for ice for his knee, but they didn't have any…??

Saturday, July 4: Bydgoszcz, Torun

In the morning, we had our breakfast waiting for us (they asked us what time we wanted it). What a lovely arrangement and selection! A table in the restaurant area was set up for 3 with juice, yogurt, a basket of bread, jams & butters, flavored cream cheeses, individual plates with meats, cheeses, & sliced tomatoes, & a dish of creamy scrambled egg was then served warm. A coffee & tea table was nearby, but they initially filled our cups. We enjoyed it, but wondered how they made any money -- there was almost no one at the hotel. If others had the same initial impression of the entrance that we did, it's no wonder! A very nice place -- needs a new front entrance/signage, lots of advertising, & a publicity manager! Apparently the night club is very popular, so this may be where much of the revenue comes from.

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